Mattresses- What's the difference?

In brief

• Buy on comfort and price, and make sure you can return the mattress if you find it’s not as comfortable as you expected.
  
• The only way to choose a new mattress is to lie on as many as possible. We give you tips on what to look for and how best to test when you hit the shops.
  
• Replace your mattress every 10 years. Using the same one for too long can cause back and neck problems, not to mention hygiene risks.

Mattress Sizes

• Twin 39" x 75" (also known as single) Most common for childrens' rooms, Daybeds, Trundle units and hideaways.
  Twin Extra Long 39" x 80"
  Is generally used in college dorm rooms and is 5" longer than a standard twin. Bedding may be harder to find and available only a limited variety of pattes. Approx. width per person: 39"
  Pros: Standard fare in college dorms. Longer length is good for taller teens and adults. Still easy to make.
  Cons: Bedding can be harder to find.


• Double 54" x 75" (also known as Full)
  Double beds are only 15" wider than a Twin bed. This won't leave much elbow room for 2 adults (each will have only 27" of width vs. 39" in a Twin bed). Too, a Double bed is only 75" long which may be too short for some adults. Approx. width per person: 27"
  Pros: Fits into smaller rooms. Sheets are less expensive than queen or king size.
  Cons: Many people find a Double is too narrow for 2 adults with only 27" in width for each person. And, it may be too short for some.


• Queen 60" x 80"
  Queen Beds are 6" wider (and 5" longer) than a Double bed. These added inches can make all the difference in comfort, but each adult still has 9" less than the width of a standard Twin bed. However, it's a good choice for guest rooms and smaller master bedrooms. Approx. width per person: 30"
  Pros: A better fit for 2 adults. The 80" length comfortably accommodates most adults. Bedding is easy to find.
  Cons: At only 30" of wide for each person (only 3" wider than a Double) many people find a Queen is still too narrow for comfortable sleeping for a couple. Note that some bedding is sold as "Full/Queen" and may not perfectly fit either size, so check the measurements before purchasing. Can use standard pillows or the slightly larger queen size pillows.


• King 76" x 80" Also known as Eastern King
  King is about 16" wider than a Queen bed. Both are about 80" long. The Eastern King is the only bed to give each person the same width as a Twin bed. In fact you can push 2 Extra-Long Twin beds together to be the same size as an Eastern King. This is a good way to have a versatile guest room (use 2 twins separately or push together to make a king bed for couples). An Eastern King bed comes with one mattress and two half-width box springs to be more manageable when moving. Approx. width per person: 38"
  Pros: This is the widest standard bed available. Roomy enough for 2 large adults. The 80" length comfortably accommodates most people. Sheets are easy to find and are generally labeled simply "King".
  Cons: This is a very large mattress that may not fit easily up stairs or into smaller rooms. (Check bendability on king size mattresses)Taller people may prefer the California King instead with its longer length. All bedding is most expensive in king sizes. Needs 3 standard pillows or 2 king pillows for this width.


• California King 72" x 84"
  California King is 12" wider than a Queen bed but adds 4" in length. This may be a better choice for taller adults. This size is sometimes known as the "Western King". Bedding may be labeled either "California King" or "Western King". A California King bed set comes with one mattress and two half-width box springs to be more manageable when moving. Approx. width per person: 36"
  Pros: A California King size mattress is roomy in width for 2 adults. Also, it is the longest standard bed available at about 84", and is ample for most taller people.
  Cons: This is a very large mattress that may not fit easily up stairs or into smaller rooms. Sheets are plentiful on the West Coast but may be a bit more difficult to find in other parts of the country, so try looking for them online if you're not on the West Coast. Needs 3 standard pillows or 2 king pillows for this width. All bedding is most expensive in king sizes.

There’s no scientific consensus on what makes a good mattress. People around the world sleep comfortably on all sorts of beds: straw mats, hammocks, futons, waterbeds, airbeds and all manner of mattress. In a market where what feels good is good and comfort is subjective, it comes down to you — what feels comfortable, what you can afford, and what you can do if your new mattress turns out not to suit you.

Time for a change?
Manufacturers and chiropractors recommend you replace your mattress around every 10 to 13 years, depending on how it’s treated. If it’s on a sprung base, plan to replace it every 12 or 13 years. A mattress on an unsprung base (including fixed-slat bases) should last about 10 years. See Good foundations for more on bases.
If your mattress is of poor quality or you don’t look after it properly (see Caring for your mattress), it may not last this long. And in any case, it’s recommended you replace your mattress at least every 10 years for hygiene reasons.
Some obvious signs you need a new mattress are annoying peaks, dips or lumps, or if you wake up stiff. If it’s uncomfortable, interferes with your sleep or leaves you with a backache, it’s definitely time to act.
Another reason for regularly renewing your mattress is that your needs change as your body ages. As you get older, your body will appreciate softer padding to support and protect pressure points. But don’t confuse softer padding with a soft, saggy bed — the underlying structure should be firm enough to support your spine as it gradually loses strength and flexibility. Furthermore, you may have difficulty moving around in — and getting out of — a bed that’s too soft.

Your options
There’s a variety of mattresses and bed bases on offer these days, and what’s best for you ultimately comes down to personal preference. Most people buy an inner-spring mattress and box base or slatted bedstead, so we’ll concentrate on this set-up. Latex and foam mattresses, futons and waterbeds are discussed in Alternatives. We also take a look at the new kid on the block: viscoelastic mattresses — see Memory foam.

You can’t tell much about the quality of a mattress by looking at it from the outside — you’ll have to rely on knowledgeable and helpful salespeople and cutaway models in stores. (If you don’t find either of these, go elsewhere.) However, it helps to know something about the structure of a mattress before you go shopping so you know what to look for, what to ask, and how to understand the answers.

Springs
The spring unit is the main source of support for your body. Five factors can influence the degree of comfort, support and durability of a mattress: the number of springs or coils, their shape, the gauge of wire used, the number of turns in each spring and the distribution of the springs.

The final effect will depend on an interplay of all these factors. So, for instance, more springs aren’t necessarily better if they’re lower in quality. Let comfort, rather than stats, be the deciding factor.

The number of springs: There should be at least 300 coils in a double bed, 375 in a queen-size and 450 in a king-size. But otherwise, more doesn't necessarily mean better - let comfort be your guide.

Spring shape: There are several shapes of spring, and it may be a good idea to try lying on the different kinds, as one type may suit you better.
Hourglass-shaped springs are used in the original inner-spring system, called the Bonnell System. They’re joined together with spiral wires to form the unit. They compress quite easily at first, but then get firmer the more they’re compressed (hence offering more support), resulting in a ‘soft but firm’ bed. They tend to be found in cheaper mattresses.
Continuous coil springing is made from a single length of wire shaped into a system of coils. It means manufacturers can increase the density of coils, which they claim gives greater support and minimises partner disturbance. The number of springs or coils is irrelevant in a continuous system.

Open-ended coils are joined together part-way down the spring, rather than at the top so that the ‘open end’ is left free.
Image right: The blue part of this premium open-ended coil is joined to neighbouring springs, leaving the entire gold-coloured part of the spring is free.
Open-ended coils are joined together to form a spring system, but the top (and bottom, for a double-sided mattress) of each coil is free to move independently. This allows each coil to adjust to the weight on it, with the free-moving bit compressing relatively easily for comfort, and the body of the coil offering more resistance and therefore firmer support. Because there’s more turns -- and therefore wire -- in these springs, they tend to be more expensive than Bonnell or continuous coil systems.

Pocket-spring mattresses consist of a grid of springs, each in their own fabric pocket. Because they’re not wired together, each spring is able to work more or less independently — the weight on one spring doesn’t affect those surrounding it (except for pull by the mattress cover). Tests by our German counterparts consistently rate pocket-spring mattresses the most comfortable type of inner-spring mattress.

Hourglass-shaped Bonnell springs and continuous coils are joined at the top and bottom to form a single spring unit, while pocket springs are able to move more or less independently (though the mattress coverings limit complete independence). Open-ended coils are joined together part-way down the spring, rather than at the top (which is free). The most comfortable spring system comes down to personal preference and depends, among other things, on your size and weight, and whether you sleep alone or with a partner.

Wire gauge: Not all springing systems are made from wire with the same strength, durability and quality. Ask for information about the gauge of wire used in a mattress. The lower the number, the more durable the wire (that is, 13-gauge wire is thicker and stronger than 16-gauge). Wire may also be measured in millimetres — obviously the higher the number the thicker it is.
Active turns: A further variation is the number of active turns in the spring or coil — that is, the number of turns that are absorbing and supporting the weight of the body. The more turns, the softer the bed and the longer the springs will last because the work is spread around.
Distribution of springs: Some beds differentiate support zones in the mattress, usually putting firmer springs in the centre third of the bed to support your heavy bits. It’s difficult to confirm whether they really add to the quality of support offered by the mattress.
Some also include side or edge support springs, which provide more strength and support at the edge of the mattress, and protect against the spring and comfort systems breaking down around the edge of the bed (which is thought to be a major cause of mattress failure).
Padding and ticking
The comfort layer is what lies between you and the springs — it determines how hard or soft the mattress feels against your body.
A manufacturer that makes a large range of mattresses will often use the same spring unit but vary the fillings — the more expensive the mattress, the better the filling. And the better the filling, the longer the mattress should last.
At the top end of the market (over $2500) fillings include silk, wool, cashmere, premium foams, latex and goosedown. At the lower end (under $700), materials include lower grades of foam, reclaimed cotton fibres and coconut fibre. These don’t tend to last as long because they break apart more easily, forming lumps and pockets, and lose their ability to spring back more quickly. A $7000 bed won’t last seven times as long as a $1000 one, however — you’re paying the price for luxury rather than durability.
You might want to think twice about getting a ‘pillow top’ mattress (where a separate thick layer of padding is attached to the top and bottom of the mattress). They tend to lose their ability to bounce back over time. We've had complaints from consumers to this effect, and the mattresses are very expensive. If you want extra cushioning, buy a separate padded overlay made from foam, feathers, cotton, latex or memory foam, and replace it when needed.
The way in which the padding is secured in place can also influence how well the bed maintains its comfort. In top-of-the-range mattresses, each layer is handstitched into place to prevent the materials shifting around. This is a specialist craft (called hand-tufting) and can take one person several days. Retailers should know which mattresses are hand-tufted — they’ll be the expensive ones.
As far as the outer cover (or ticking) goes, cheaper, less durable mattresses will probably have a flat cotton cover, while more expensive ones have quilted damask covers (linen, silk, cotton or wool fabric woven with patterns) - which will get covered up with a sheet!

Good foundations
Box bases
A typical ‘ensemble’ consists of a box base and inner-spring mattress. Some box bases are simply that: a wooden box with a board or slats across the top, covered with fabric to match the mattress. Others have internal springs, which take some of the load from the mattress, helping to extend its life. When you’re thinking about a new mattress, take a good look at the condition of your base — if it’s sagging or worn you may need to replace it too, as it won’t support your new mattress properly and will shorten its life. Some companies won't honour warranties if you've used the mattress on a base they consider inadequate.

Slatted bases
There are two types: fixed and flexible slats. Flexible slats are attached to the frame with pivoting holders and allow some give. Fixed slats — the more common of the two — attach straight to the frame and offer little or no give to the mattress. Latex and foam mattresses work best on a flexible slat base; fixed slats are fine for inner-spring mattresses.
Despite what you may see or read, one major manufacturer tells us there’s no such thing as a mattress that shouldn’t go on a slatted base. A mattress may last longer on a sprung base, but a slatted-base bedstead itself could last a lifetime (unlike a sprung base).
Make sure the slats aren’t too far apart — about 5 cm or 2" is good.

People who are elderly or infirm and those who have asthma or back problems have special needs, and should consider the following points when choosing a mattress:

• An inner-spring mattress can be very heavy and may be difficult to flip or turn regularly by people who are older or have back problems. A foam mattress may be a better option, or look for a one-sided (no-flip) mattress (though these should still be rotated).
  The same people may have difficulty getting into and out of a bed that’s too high or too low. When you sit on the edge of the bed, your feet should reach the ground comfortably, and you shouldn’t need to use much effort to stand.

• If you’re prone to pressure pain from sitting or lying in the same position for too long, choose a mattress with soft padding. Don’t go too soft — the underlying support (provided by the spring unit) should be firm enough to allow you to roll over and sit up easily. The softness should come only from the surface cushioning.
  Beds with names involving ‘paedic’, ‘chiro’, ‘ortho’ and so on aren’t necessarily better for you than others without medical-sounding terms — it could just be the marketing.

• Also be wary of endorsements from medical-sounding organisations. While some are legitimate, in some cases manufacturers buy the rights to use one, rather than earn it, and other manufacturers have been found to claim endorsements from impressive-sounding but non-existent organisations.

• Although a firm bed can help some lower back pain, a bed that’s too firm could also aggravate some back conditions. Some back problems may benefit from a soft bed, so it’s important to ask your doctor or back-care specialist for advice first.

• Asthmatics and allergy sufferers may find that an anti-allergy cover will help prevent dustmites settling in the mattress. Vacuum your mattress regularly. A slatted bed base will improve ventilation and provide fewer places for allergens to accumulate.

Some people prefer the look or feel of other types of mattresses to the inner-spring type we’ve looked at here.

Alternatives include:
Futons
Originally from Japan, futons are basically big cushions filled with fluffed-up cotton, wool and/or artificial fibres. You need to keep the fillings well-ventilated and fluffed-up, and they must be turned regularly to avoid mildew — and they’re often just as heavy as an inner-spring mattress. They’re harder than most other types of mattress and may better suit people with a small, light build, as they won’t adapt to your curves and bumps as readily.



Waterbeds
They’re claimed to give good body support without pressure points, and may be good for allergy sufferers. Good support depends on the amount of water in it, so make sure it’s full enough. If you sleep with a partner, look for a design that minimises disturbance from movement. They’re very cosy in cool weather, and cool in warm weather, but make sure you put a fabric layer between the sheet and the bladder to absorb perspiration.

Foam mattresses
There’s foam and there’s foam. Polyurethane foam mattresses come in different grades. Cheap low-grade mattresses may be good for the spare room, but aren’t resilient enough for everyday use. In Europe, where foam mattresses are popular, high-grade foam scores well for comfort (support and breathability) and durability. Foam mattresses sold in Australia tend to be low-grade, although European-based retailers in Australia are likely to sell European-quality mattresses.

Latex
Latex (natural rubber) mattresses can be very expensive, and may also need an expensive flexible-slat base. One made of good-quality, pure latex, however, can be expected to last 20–25 years. A latex mattress may be a good option for allergy sufferers because they’re less likely to harbour mould and dustmites.
Our German counterparts found that these don’t wobble like inner-spring mattresses (reducing partner disturbance), and they rated well in tests (on a par with high-grade foam mattresses or pocket-spring mattresses). If you’re buying a latex mattress, consider getting one with a firm innercore and soft top layer, so you get the luxurious, spongy feeling without sinking right into it. If you can’t afford a latex mattress, a latex overlay (used with a firm inner-spring mattress) is a good, comfortable option.


Memory foam
Though not exactly ‘new’ — it was developed by NASA about 30 years ago — the buzzword in bed-world today is viscoelastic, also known as memory foam.
It’s made from polyurethane, but has a different cell structure from other foams, which makes it less ‘springy’ and slower to recover (hence ‘memory foam’ — it ‘remembers’ your shape for a while after you’ve moved).
You can buy viscoelastic mattresses (which have a layer of viscoelastic attached to another material, usually polyurethane foam) or viscoelastic overlays (which you put on your current mattress). The thicker the viscoelastic layer, the more you’ll sink in — which isn’t necessarily a good thing.
They’re reported to be very comfortable and luxurious feeling, and are excellent in terms of minimising partner disturbance. But they’re not for everyone – they’ve also been described as like ‘sleeping on wet or hard sand’.

Sensitive to weight and temperature, a viscoelastic mattress moulds to your body’s form, supporting it evenly, rather than having pressure concentrate at the shoulders, hips and feet. They’re used in some hospitals and nursing homes to help prevent pressure ulcers caused by lying in one position for a long time.

References to numerous ‘clinical trials’ and ‘clinically proven’ facts have been bandied about, although none of the mentioned trials has been published in the mainstream medical or scientific literature.
One such trial held over three months claimed that over 90% of people trying a particular brand of viscoelastic mattress experienced marked improvements in the quality of their sleep. Other studies claimed an 83% reduction in tossing and turning, and deeper sleep experienced by participants.

Our German counterparts tested viscoelastic mattresses and found they offered no particular advantages over other types, except for bedridden people, who may benefit from the pressure-spreading. Overall they tended to score less than foam, latex or pocket-spring mattresses and equal to regular (Bonnell-spring) inner-spring mattresses.
The main criticism was that the softness of the mattress makes it hard to move in your sleep, therefore requiring more physical effort. Heavy people in particular might find it difficult. Small movements (as opposed to full-scale tossing and turning, which is caused by blood-flow restriction at pressure points) are important for spine health.
However this may have been specific to the models tested. If you’re trying out one of these mattresses in a shop, see how easily you can move — if you feel bogged, try a thinner layer of viscoelastic.
Keep in mind that it takes about 15 minutes for the foam in some mattresses to fully warm up and soften, so what feels pleasantly firm at first (or unpleasantly hard) may not stay that way for long. So make sure you allow enough time to test mattresses properly when you’re buying. And not all memory foam feels the same, so if you like the idea of it, try different brands and models.

Finally: it just boils down to comfort.

Hardwood characteristics

Which wood is best for furniture, mahogany, maple, beech, cherry, teak, pine or oak?

Available in a variety of colors, grains, and hardnesses, solid wood has always been a preferred material for fine furniture. Shock-resistant and durable, it's also a sound investment, increasing in value over generations. Different parts of the world produce different types of woods, each with its own set of characteristics. And because each tree yields lumber with its own grain patterns and markings, each piece of genuine wood has its own unique personality.

Hardwood vs. Softwood
Solid woods can be classified as hard or soft. A hardwood is derived from a broad-leefed tree (without needles), such as maple, cherry, oak, ash, walnut, or mahogany. Hardwoods usually offer greater strength and stability. Softwoods come from needle-bearing evergreen trees, such as pine, spruce, redwood, or cedar, and are preferred for intricately carved pieces. Softwoods are more susceptible to marks and dings, but this can often result in an appealing weathered quality.

Below are some distinguishing traits of 10 types of wood most commonly used to construct fine furniture. Also included are some less popular types of wood, such as cherry and walnut, both of which are regarded as material for luxury furniture.

1. Mahogany
Mahogany is a tropical medium-to-hard wood indigenous to S. America, Central America, and Africa. Mahogany's strength makes it an excellent carving wood. It has a uniform pore structure, a medium grain, and less defined annual rings. Mahogany ranges from tan to reddish-brown in color. It is a durable species, and maintains its shape against swelling and shrinkage. Its stability and resistance to decay makes the wood ideal for high-quality cabinetry and furniture.
As the girth of the tree is broad furniture makers were able to use a single cut of wood for a table top. Furniture made from mahogany became very popular in Britain from mid 18 th Century, followed by the rest of Europe.

2. Oak
Oak is the wood most commonly used for finer, more durable furniture. It is a very hard, heavy, open-grained wood that grows from deciduous and evergreen trees in the States, Canada, and Europe. It's found in both red and white varieties. Red oak (a.k.a. black oak) has a pinkish cast and is the more popular of the two. White oak has a slightly greenish cast. Prominent rings and large pores give oak a coarse texture and prominent grain. It stains well in any color.

3. Maple
Maple is a very light-colored medium-to-hard wood, abundant in the E. America. Known for its shock resistance, maple has diffused, evenly-sized pores that give the wood a fine texture and an even grain. Maple is highly durable and take any stain well. It can be finished to resemble walnut, cherry, or other more expensive hardwoods.

4. Beech
Beech found primarily in northeast America and Canada, beech is a heavy, pale-colored, medium-to-hard wood used widely for chairs and stools. It has a fine, tight grain and large medullar rays, similar in appearance to maple or birch woods. Beech wood has a high shock resistance and takes stains well. It is a hard, strong material, but it does not endure like some hardwoods do. Beech polishes well. It is used in general purpose fabrications as well as in furniture, toys, and floors.

5. Pine
Pine is a softwood that grows in many varieties in various parts of the world. In the States, Eastern White Pine, Ponderosa Pine, and Sugar Pine are some of the types used to make furniture. Pine's "knotty" characteristics provide warmth and individuality to each crafted piece. Usually light-yellow in color, the wood has a broadly spaced striation pattern. It is ideal for children's rooms, family rooms, beach cottages and anywhere you'd like an airier, lighter feel. Its natural grain and shades ensure that no piece is exactly alike. Excellent for staining.

6. Cherry
Also known as fruitwood, cherry is a strong, fine-grained hardwood with a pink undertone, often played up with a medium or dark finish to enhance its mahogany-red tones. Its rich coloring darkens with age and exposure to light. Cherry resists warping and is easy to carve and polish. Often used for 18th-century and formal, traditional-style furniture, cherry is often considered a luxury wood. Fine-grained hardwoods, such as maple and alder, are common substitutes for cherry. Black Cherry grows in Canada, the United States, and Central America; European Cherry is distributed throughout Europe and southeast Asia

7 Teak
Indigenous to Indonesia, India, and Central America, teak is a high-quality yellow to dark-brown hardwood. It’s generally straight-grained with a coarse, uneven texture and an oily feel. Teak ranges from yellow-brown to dark golden-brown in color. Noted for its heaviness and durability, it was originally used for shipbuilding and is now often used for high-caliber outdoor furniture and decking.

8. Walnut
Prized in North America for high-end cabinetry and furniture, walnut provides strength, hardness, and durability without excessive weight. It has excellent woodworking qualities and takes finishes well. Walnut is light to dark chocolate-brown in color, with a straight grain in the trunk. It can be found in the United States and Canada

9. Birch
Birch is a stiff, close-grained hardwood that grows primarily in northeast U.S. and Canada. A heavy wood, it has a high shock resistance. Birch is very light in color (predominantly a light yellow) and takes any stain well.

10. Rosewood
This is a dark-red or brown hardwood, derived from tropical trees. Heavy, hard, and dense, rosewood is noted for its stability and excellent decay resistance. Though commonly used for Oriental furniture, rosewood is now used for traditional European designs, as well as cabinetry. Quality rosewood furniture can be distinguished by silver lines, achieved by polishing with Chinese Tang Oil. This firm luster surface is different from the glossy imitation paint used on more inferior rosewood furniture.


Solid Wood Versus Veneers
If you've been shopping for wood furniture, you may have been told that solid wood is better than veneers...or vice versa. In fact, solid wood and veneers are both good things. Knowing how they differ helps you evaluate what's best for your home and your lifestyle, instead of guessing and hoping for the best. So let's start with basics....
The popularity of solid wood furniture arises from comfort level. What you see is what you get...although stains can give one wood the look of another, especially if the grains are similar. Solid wood construction indicates stability and integrity, the real McCoy. And so it is, especially with such woods as mahogany, cherry, birch, maple and oak. Solid woods also have the advantage of being easily refinished, should the need arise.
However, much of today's quality furniture is a combination of solid woods (providing strength to frames, legs and other supporting components) and veneers, applied to solid wood or wood composition material. This prevents the warping and splitting that sometimes occurs when solid wood expands and contracts from humidity changes.
A veneer is simply a thin layer of wood, chosen for beauty and character, then glued or bonded to another wood surface. It's not a poor substitute for solid wood or a synthetic material printed with a wood grain effect. In fact, bonding a veneer to another surface creates extra strength and allows for surface patterns or designs that would otherwise be impossible.

New Technology
New technology has brought radical improvements to veneering. Laser techniques provide outstanding quality control and precision in cutting veneers, allowing craftsmen to make ever more beautiful grain matches. Improved glues have eliminated problems that once made veneers separate from their surfaces, making them even less likely to crack or warp than solid woods.
Despite such advances, veneering still requires great craftsmanship. Sophisticated inlays or marquetry involve several painstaking steps including matching and joining, gluing, sanding, polishing and finishing.

Got a Match?
Sheets of veneer can be combined on larger surfaces to form interesting patterns by using the following matching techniques:

• Book matching: sheets of veneer are placed side-by-side, like the pages of a book, creating a symmetrical pattern
• End matching: sheets are placed end-to-end to produce a continuous pattern
• Four-way match: a combination of book and end matching
• Slip matching: sheets are placed into side-by-side patterns to produce herringbone, diamond and checkered patterns.

Inspiration

Still a little suspicious of veneered furniture? Check out the 18th century master cabinetmakers like Chippendale and Hepplewhite. Their veneered furniture still graces museums and private collections, still sets standards for fine design as we move into the 21st century.
Then enjoy the wide range of modern day furniture that draws its inspiration from those old masters - whether reproductions of 18th century design or contemporary design where elegant simplicity is the perfect setting for beautiful veneers.

Some makers use both types of construction in building custom furniture and custom cabinets. Now lets look at these two options and their strong and weak points.
Solid wood furniture, this means all exposed parts are made of the same species of all natural wood, with no other materials included, such as plywood or particle board.

Advantages of Solid Wood:
Practical. The durability of solid wood furniture is high on the list. Scratches, dings, dents, water marks, stains can all be repaired. Obviously, the worse the damage the more expensive, but it is certainly easier and less expensive than veneer furniture.

Disadvantages of Solid Wood:
Split. When exposed to extreme atmospheric conditions, solid wood furniture will expand or contract, and may split along the grain of the wood. Some makers use a "floating case system" in which table and case-piece surfaces are attached using a bracket method or elongated holes for screws to slide. This enables furniture to respond to environmental changes without damage. As a rule, though, avoid exposing pieces to strong sunlight or direct heat sources.
Good quality veneer furniture will have a solid core and the legs, posts, doors or drawer fronts will be straight-grain solid wood.

Advantages of Veneer:
Beautiful. The best, most interesting logs are cut into veneer. This is largely an economic decision--sellers and veneer makers can make more money from a high quality log sliced into veneer than they can from sawing it into boards. And certain cuts, such as burls, are structurally unsound in 'the solid'. These beautiful woods can rarely be utilized unless they're sliced into veneer
Environmentally kind. Saw timber is typically sawn into 1" thick boards. The saw cuts a kerf between boards 1/4" thick that winds up as sawdust. Veneer is not cut from the log but sliced with a knife (like lunch meat) into 1/32" leaves or sheets. That produces 32 veneer surfaces for every 1 that is gotten from a board and with no wood wasted as sawdust another 8 sheets where the saw blade would have gone. That's 40 surfaces of wood veneer for every 1 of solid wood. Creates new design possibilities. Since veneer is so thin and is glued to a stable
Since veneer is glued to a stable substrate it produces surfaces not prone to warp or splitting or seasonal movement.
Substrates. Plywood and medium density fiberboard, the substrates used for some furniture, are made from low quality trees. This means a market is provided the landowner for these trees. This leads to better forests over time since the trees remaining grow better and faster with less competition for resources. Its like weeding your garden only a lot bigger.

Disadvantages Veneer:
Thin. This is more of a problem for the builder than the buyer. Sand-through in preparation for finishing is 'touching the third rail' of woodworking. Such pieces are almost impossible to repair and frequently involve 're-design' (as in cutting off the sanded through area) or making a speculative, difficult repair which can be difficult to hide. Once the piece is completed thickness of the veneer is of no concern.
It all depends on who is the manufacturer and how it is built. When buying your piece of furniture, always ask if it is real wood veneers or laminated imitation of wood. If the surface of table top or any wood case top looks Perfect and unreal, then it is most probably not a wood veneer. Pores, scuffs and wood knots can be easily found even on wood veneers if the veneer comes from wood. These pores, nicks and scuffs are the signature of nature and proves to the buyer that yes, this is a slice of real wood that is veneered over this top.

How to clean a microfiber sofa

Introduction
Microfiber is a stain-resistant material that is becoming a more popular choice in furniture construction. It eliminates the need for harsh cleaning chemicals, and since it resists stains and lint, it does not need to be cleaned as often as other materials. However, you still need to know how to maintain and clean your microfiber sofa to keep iy looking as good as new.

Instructions

• Step One
  Use a lint trapper (the sticky ones that pull lint from material) about once a week. If you have cats or dogs in your home, you might want to do this as often as once a day. A lint trapper will take off any lint, dust or fur without damaging the microfiber on your sofa. It will also keep it looking new and colorful.
• Step Two Vacuum your microfiber sofa about once every one or two weeks. Unlike a lint trapper, a vacuum can get in between and under the cushions. Take all the cushions and pillows off your microfiber sofa and vacuum everything separately. Use a furniture attachment to help get everything up.
• Step Three Clean up any spills on you microfiber sofa immediately. Use a warm, damp piece of terrycloth and a drop of mild detergent. Dab the spill gently. Do not scrub it. Allow it to dry completely before using your sofa again. The spill should come up easily without you needing to do anything else.
• Step Four Clean pet-urine stains off your microfiber sofa with a bit of white vinegar and distilled water. Blot with this mixture. Apply some baking soda while it is still damp and vacuum thoroughly. It should clean the stain and eliminate the odor.
• Step Five Hire a professional furniture cleaner to steam-clean your microfiber sofa once a year in order to maintain its appearance. Find a local furniture cleaner with a good reputation.

Overall Tips & Warnings
Always have a lint roller with a sticky surface to clean your microfiber sofa. Clean up spills immediately. Do not rub or scrub--only blot and dab.

How to buy leather furniture

Introduction
Leather furniture gives a room an elegant yet inviting feel. It's a great investment because leather actually gets better with age and will outlast most upholstered furniture. Buying leather furniture can be a big investment so it's best to think carefully about what type of furniture and leather will fit your tastes and lifestyle.
When choosing leather, consider that it is a natural material and nature's signatures will be incorporated into it. These signatures may be in the form of healed scars, blemishes or other markings that should be considered natural beauty marks. Color variations also occur in aniline leathers. During the dyeing process, since pigments are not used, each hide absorbs the dye in varying amounts, much like wood varies when stained. An arm of a sofa may have a slightly different shade than the cushion or back of a sofa, because both pieces were cut from different parts of the hide, this is not a material defect, but evidence that it is natural leather. A swatch or sample cutting represents the color, texture and feel of the leather. However please understand it will likely not be an exact match to the hides you receive if you choose to special order your selections. Variations are due to the fact that leather is a natural product with unique characteristics that differ from hide to hide.

Leather Characteristics and Care
Leather brings prestige to any interior with its special feel and aroma. In an economy where the consumer wants the most for his or her dollar, leather delivers superior value. It is important that you appreciate its virtues and value.

Longevity: With continuous use, leather upholstery outlasts fabric at least 4-to-1, and unlike fabric, leather improves with age. Leather is also resilient and resists fading, tearing and cracking. Since fabrics are woven, any change in appearance from age and use detracts from their beauty. Leather, on the other hand, adjusts to its environment. It mellows gracefully with age and develops a patina.
Unique Style: Leather is always in style. Surface features testify to the authenticity of natural leather. Variations across a hide, density of grain, creases and folds, are distinctive characteristics much like the grain of fine wood. Leather is not like a bolt of cloth. On a sofa, five hides may be utilized which will blend and complement, but will never be identical. Leather is available in many price ranges and styles to suit all budgets and decors.
Worry-free Maintenance: Leather is a very practical material. Because leather is a natural material and has been preserved in the tanning process, it requires very little maintenance to keep it supple, clean and comfortable. Stains caused by food or drink can be removed from finished leathers with ease. In fact, many spills quickly bead up and can be absorbed or wiped away.
Temperature Control: Leather will breathe for comfort and ventilate to adjust to the environment.
Durability: Leather is the most durable upholstered material and its extremely strong texture makes it difficult to scratch or scuff. Leather won't stretch out of shape.
Health Benefits: Leather is lint and dust-free, making it ideal for sufferers of asthma and other allergies. Dust mites can grow wherever skin flakes can be found and it is for this reason that allergy experts recommend leather furniture for its ability to resist dust collection and can be easily wiped clean. Leather is fire resistant and emits no toxic fumes even when exposed to intense heat.
Care & Maintenance: Vacuum the piece now and then or wipe it off with a damp cloth. Do not place the furniture in direct sunlight and avoid placing it against a warm radiator or register. Stains that are water-soluble can be dabbed lightly and absorbed with a clean natural sponge or paper towel. Use cool water and mild soap such as Ivory, joy or any mild dishwashing liquid if cleaning is required. Do not rub. A grease stain such as butter can be left alone after the surplus has been wiped off with a dry cloth. The grease will eventually vanish into the leather. Never attempt to use chemical spot cleaners. For severe stains or damage, consult a leather repair specialist. If you purchase the Guardsman protection plan all these staind are covered, and they will clean or replace it within that 5 year period
Guardsman leather cleaner: This rejuvenation cleaner has been developed to add life to tired and faded leather. It is provide when you purchase a 5 year protection plan, which is a Godsend if you have kids, pets or sloppy friends or guest. It may be used on surface scuffs, scratches, abrasions and faded areas. Apply a small amount to a clean, white cloth and lightly dab the scratch or rub onto the faded area. Be careful not to use too much as this will cause the mark to darken. Always test on a non-visible area first. Not for use on Nubuk or sueded leathers.

General Instructions and information prior to purchase

1. Step One
Consider how much wear and tear your furniture is going to be subject to. If you have a large family or the furniture is in a room that gets used often, think about buying a middle-grade leather. It's easier to clean and can withstand wear and tear better.

2. Step Two
Expect imperfections when you buy leather furniture. If you're used to upholstered furniture you may be surprised at seeing imperfections on the leather such as scars and stretch marks. These are characteristics of the leather, not flaws in the furniture.

3 Step Three
Buy your leather furniture groupings all together, rather than one piece at a time. Leather is a natural product containing imperfections and differences in texture. If you buy your furniture gradually, the color and texture of the different pieces may not match.

4 Step Four
Look for leather furniture that has zippered seat cushions. Leather will likely last longer than the seat cushions. When the time comes to change a cushion you will want to be able to get to it easily.

5 Step Five
Decide how much time you want to put into upkeep. Different types of leather need different care. Purchase leather furniture only if you have enough time to care for it.

Tips & Warnings
Make sure your furniture is not a leather and vinyl combination because the vinyl will wear out before the leather. If you have pets, remember that leather furniture may not be the best option for you. Pet's claws can easily damage the leather.


Caring for Rawhide Leather (sometimes called unprotected)
The qualities of leather, created by nature and preserved by the tanner, are superior to those of any manmade synthetic material. To maintain the investment and ensure years of comfort, consistent maintenance will increase the life of the furniture for many years. Leather furniture is meant to get a little scratched up. It's part of the aging process that eventually produces a handsome desirable patina. Just like a pair of jeans, that look and feel better when they are broken in, leather furniture looks better with age. Blemishes are simply a part of the process.
Don't use colored shoe polish, it will rub into clothes.
Some soaps can leave behind a soap scum or residue. Some treatments darken leather, creating greasy spots that will encourage mold and mildew problems.
Never rub or scrub spots.
All leather treatments, cleaners or conditioners should be tested in an inconspicuous spot on the furniture, in order to make sure there are no adverse chemical reactions.

Questions & Answers

• Is Leather Hot?
  Leather is constantly adjusting to its environment. It is cool to the initial touch but will adjust to your body temperature within 10-15 seconds. Your furniture will not be hot & sticky.
  
• Will Leather Fade?
  Yes. Direct exposure to ultra violet sun rays will cause fading and/or discoloration.


• How Long Will Leather Last?
  Leather pieces have been known to be passed down a generation after 20-30 years of use. Consistent maintenance will increase the life of your furniture for many years.


• How Strong Is Leather?
  Leather is the strongest upholstery material available.


• Is Leather For Children?
  Yes. Leather is great for children of all ages. It is easy to care for and can take the day to day use from your family.


• Can You Mix Leather With Fabric?
  Yes. Place the seating so that the furniture covered in leather will get the most use. Leather will not show the day-to-day wear that fabric will.


• Can Leather Be Repaired If Scratched or torn?
  Yes. Other than the chance of scratches we seldom receive calls about leather being torn or ripped. If it does there are companies that specialize in these repairs.


• Will Leather Soften After Years of Use?
  Yes, but only slightly.


• Can Leather Be Cleaned?
  Yes. Most Leathers (example: protected) can be cleaned with a mild soapy solution and water. Unprotected Leathers (example: pure aniline) require special handling. Leather care products are recommended for their protection and cleaning. (Use a professional Leather Cleaning Service.) or you can purchase the Guardsman 5 year protection plan.